With the arrival of the first weeks of heat, I decided to move to Campania to the meeting of a few good friends. A luck of Grand Tour inversely, always in train. To cross Messina’s strait and to notice as so much the landscape as the infrastructures they leave this African magic that infects the Sicily. A totally advisable experience.
While it was crossing Calabria, there was reading a summary of the chronicles futboleras that wrote Enric Gonzalez during his stay as correspondent of El País in Rome, Histories of the Calcio. An enterteining way of approaching the Italian idiosyncrasy, across what for them it is more than a sport, il calcio. I was preparing myself to come to Naples, probably one of the most Italian cities of Italy, and to accompany my trip reading the misdeeds of Francesco Totti and Antonio Cassano, or the exploits of an equipment of neighborhood that comes to the Serie A To since the Chievo Verona it was a great pleasure. And in turn, a peripheral way of approaching a region with an architectural, natural and cultural frightening heritage. Seeing as an Italian the calcio lives, more when it is a question of a terrone, with this so typical stark reality, we can deal since they enjoy every moment. To share with a southern Italian a glass of wine can be the best half hour of your life.
In this region of Italy I confirmed what he was thinking it was an exception in case of Sicily. The concentration of goods of all kinds puts in evidence to the rest of Europa. I would dare to say that the cultural, intellectual and natural heritage of any Italian region can be compared with that of any country to the complete one. To wallow in this abundance helps find with a diverse concept of conviviality with the art. Italy suffers, or rather he enjoys, a phenomenon of “debunking of the heritage” if the expression is allowed me. We find elements that in any country of the world they would suppose material museístico of the first order dispersed for any pedanía, still in use, without clearing in order to his original function or altering this one for in no case to break the triad vitruviana of the firmitas, utilitas, venustas. We find the art in natural condition. This way, it becomes quite much easier. You meet capable of enjoying the history, are conscious indeed of the passage of time. It is something more that to come to a museum with the intention of correcting of the list of the purchase the Egyptian mummies and the triglifos and metopas of the Parthenon during the same morning. She itself is marking the tempo, with the distance that Paestum de Salerno separates, the Pantheon of San Ivo, Quattro Canti of the Vucciria. It leaves a moment you to breathe, to ask for a coffee, always only and with a water glass, and to assimilate what you have just seen. To tell him to your company the brilliant thing that is to tread on a Greek temple.
If we have to do something to know, though it is a bit, where there are the roots of our culture and to understand how it evolves it is to live through Italy. In his more wide sense. I do not conceive a visit to Naples without listening ‘or surdato ‘nnamurato or without taking a good buffalina sat in any vicolò of the quartiere spagnolo. Another way does not exist. It is every one.
To synthesize, pongámosle color. Approximately 106 kilometres of steep coast separate Salerno’s Naples. I can say that probably they should be the 106 most intense kilometres of Europe. If we spread a bit more in the southern part, up to touching Paestum, it might affirm it categorically. If some place deserves to take the label of parenthesis, it is this one. One of these places where you make yourself major. Where every day supposes one I overturn total to the seen till then. Of these events that have to distinguish themselves in any calendar that should boast, of that they put the things in his site. I will try to direct my words to the architecture, something that without knowing very well what is, abounds in Italy, insurance.
The heap of all these experiences lived along this rich country, they have not done but to move away from the mamoneo that surrounds a profession in danger. This dense loom of tecnicismos, exquisitenesses, references, contacts, critiques, politiqueos, budgets, patronages, laws, regulations and unmentionable materials that do that often we get confused of that one that so much we claim and defend with hull and sword. The real architecture, to live through that of the good one. I come to the most primitive and passional meaning of the profession. To exploit the conditions of a place and a few skills to live through the possible better thing. To live well, it sounds easily. But sometimes we forget this simple assignment. Not we all are capable of doing a home. In these almost ten months, removed from the publications, the prizes and the school, few names have come to my head, very small. I was remembering the kingo and of Utzon walking along Pompeii. Of Kahn, of Asplund and of the Corbu. Of Lewerentz. Of those who indeed got dirty the fists in big combats. Of Miralles, of which they do the effort to interpret the history, of understanding it. Of whom it has tried to construct the time.
Probably it is a mirage, a fascination fruit of the visual embarrassment that I drag of this trip. It is possible that actually it is necessary to think about a new concept of living, finding a language capable of expressing the characteristics of our company. To invent a new material, or a software that allows to parametrize the happiness of the inhabitants of an architecture. It is possible that the economic lag of the south of Italy has influenced the development of the architecture. Probably the speculation, the mafia and the condition have prevented an advance towards the new architecture. They will be antiquated, they are Latin. How will they do it in Germany?
But you turn the corner, go out of the forest that protects your nape the asphyxiating Sun, and between the shrubs, it begins to show. There it is. You slow down the step, a sonrisilla escapes from you and to the water.
About what were we speaking?
Jorge Rodríguez Seoane
Last days of June, 2013. Palermo
Arquitecto y socio fundador y gerente de Seoane Arquitectura.
Experiencia activa en evaluación de riesgos y plan de negocio, gestión de personal y dirección de proyectos de ejecución.
Gestión de carteras de inversión inmobiliaria, búsqueda de activos singulares y representación de intereses.